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ever consider blogging for a good cause? Helping consumers and DIY er's?? 

Even if you don't need the business,or any new customers, or publicity or want/need to answer consumer questions, or your are pretty famous or you just keep your high tile status on the LD, OUT yourself here and now!

Committing to anything is tough especially when you are trying to run your own business or supervise others. There's barely time in the day. But you might have a little time here and there to put together a great tile related blog to share on this site for our readers and especially consumers looking for answers and people in the business. We want the best of the best tile experts in the world, but I'm told those opportunities do not exist. Expert tile guys are not that common, and with their levels of expertise, experience, education, job titles and some-paychecks- they won't be interested in this blog especially for no pay. That's right, free. Which is actually for you since I charge everyone else. [only kidding] But how's about in the spirit of giving back, of appreciating the gift God has given you, or perhaps just feeling like you want to be part of something that's been built on dreams and a vision, with one behind the scenes yet all over the place person who's never seen a paycheck? Mayve it would be nice if you showed us rookies how it's done. I'm kidding, but I am hoping someone, somewhere in the expert realm of tile will humble themselves and support this blog and add some very needed expert blood to help our consumers have good information to make good choices. 

We need tile experts and all kinds sales and marketing to get this wonderful and helpful blog on track. Don't let the amazing potential be wasted.  Out yourself here. Help this great blog out by sharing your valuable resources and experience. You'll get a lot more exposure and credibility than making comments unrelated to Chris's post, then posting your company website. We want good, ethical , skilled laborers, contractors, designers, flooring experts and stores that sells related tile, flooring, home improvement products to have a chance to share their expertise, their "niches", their systems, their experiences, etc., but I am deleting more "comments" than posting them because they are not helpful, or actual comments or shared experience, but rather attempts to advertise their product/service. BUT...as we've been posting for quite some time, FREE of cost, we do offer guest blogging opportunities where YOU and YOUR COMPANY/PRODUCT is featured. If interested, write to tileexcellence@gmail.com with your thoughts or finished posts. Just remember...honest and ethical, non competitive and no advertising-----and most importantly articles/posts that exposure our readers-your potential customers GOOD, HELPFUL information. 

Thanks.

Rubber Membrane Shower Pan Installation

Rubber Membrane Liner Do's and Don'ts

In the past we've written  about copper pan vs rubber pan liner. This article focuses exclusively on the rubber pan installation itself. With step by step pictures of the rubber pan going in including the drain attachment you will see and understand the do's and don'ts associated with the correct install so you never have to worry about a leaky shower.

   

Always use a single solid membrane for your shower pan. It needs to be 2 feet wider and longer than your actual shower floor area. Example  if your shower is 3 ft by 5 ft  then you need a 5 ft by 7 ft solid rubber membrane. Your rubber membrane needs to go 1 ft up the wall nailed to your wall studs. NEVER nail below 8 inches from the floor. TO CLARIFY KEEP ALL NAILS 8 INCHES ABOVE FINISH FLOOR. Wrap rubber liner over curb and nail Only on outside of curb. NEVER NAIL ON INSIDE OF CURB . Fold corners inside studs when possible. The drain is a 3 piece set, The adjustable screw in drain attaches to the bolt down plate which creates the actual seal against the rubber membrane. The solid one piece membrane goes right over the bottom drain plate and is cut only with a small slit for the 4 mount bolts. The actual drain hole is not cut until the seal plate is bolted\screwed down. The pictures below clarify this process. 

After the membrane is installed  the Hardi board can be installed on the wall AGAIN  NO NAILS BELOW THE 8 INCH MARK ALL NAILS NEED TO BE 8 INCHES ABOVE FINISH FLOOR  as not to create a leak in the membrane. Hardi board can be nailed on top of the curb with generous amounts of caulk used under the Hardiboard to insure top of curb seal .  Hardiboard on inside of curb is NEVER nailed  and will be held in place by the concrete packed on shower floor to create slant to drain.

Rubber membranes installed correctly can always be counted on for decades of leak free shower use. They are by far the most dependable as well as the most economical options for shower floor dry installation. The highest quality option and the most affordable; can't do better than that!! 

Follow the photos below for the step by step walk-through. Ask any questions below. 

regards   Chris 

Rubber membrane nailed 1 ft up bare wall studs

Notice rubber membrane tucked into wall stud  and nailed 12 inches up wall stud

Rubber membrane wraps over curb then nailed on outside of curb and

  Hardi board on top with caulk under to seal

A closer look of membrane nailed up wall studs notice nails 12 inches high 

Rubber membrane ready for top plate to screw down to create 

watertight seal between drain plate and membrane

Top plate screws down in equal sequence to create watertight seal

Final tightening of seal plate om rubber membrane

Finish adjustable screw in drain  ready for concrete slant to be packed

Another view of membrane wrapping over shower curb

Hardi board nailed on wall after membrane installation NEVER 

nail below 8 inches from finish floor

Tops of curbs finished with Hardi board sealed underneath with caulk and nailed

Finished Hardi board installed after membrane installed.  Notice Hardi board caulked

 in corner to seal board

Ditra Flooring Membrane Underlayment System Reality Check

Ditra Flooring System Doesn't Make Sense

I've been installing tile most of my adult life. From the first introduction of Durock then Hardi board,  Even back as far as metal wire and hand "dry pack" concrete bed floors. I personally prefer Hardi board for my installation as I understand the "water barrier" properties of this product and would recommend this product and use it exclusively in my own house as a tile underlayment.

  

Although I am always open to the introduction of new products and always open minded to something that might prove to be a better product or a improvement upon current installation methods.

   

I've know of many tile installers who swear by the installation process of the "Ditra" product. But upon a closer inspection of the product and the installation process both from a common sense and scientific prospective I have great concern regarding the quality and longevity of a "Ditra" tile installation.

    

First, why do many installers swear by the product I believe it is exclusively because it is so easy to use. It is light weight  no nails needed no carrying heavy boards cuts easily with a knife  and installs quickly .But I am not so concerned that my installer have a easy installation in my home  but more so I get a quality installation that will last a lifetime! I am afraid this product  doesn't live up to that expectation And here's why .

The "Tile Installation | Tile Repair " manufacturer requires the use of unmodified  thin set mortar to both install the "Ditra" membrane on top of a wood sub-floor as well as then install again with unmodified thin set  the tile on top of the "Ditra". This type of thin set is the lowest quality type of thin set available costing like $5 per 50 lb bag. Right on this bag of thin set itself it says "for use on concrete floors" It also says to use "acrylic mortar admix" in this product (prohibited with DITRA). Now using Ditra on wood floors is defiantly not a concrete floor installation. Instead you are adhering plastic (DITRA) onto wood with a product that states right on the bag "for concrete floor installation only" right on the bag!!! This thin set again is the lowest grade thin set available on the market . And your tile is stuck to your floor only as good as the thin set concrete you use to install it. Now common sense and science dictate to me that by using this product in the way the manufacturer suggests you are in fact getting about the lowest quality tile installation possible.

I've attached some photos of the thin set and the Ditra so you can see this for yourself and make your own decision on the quality of this very expensive product . Now I don't claim to know everything about tile installations  nor do I claim " to be the best" I only offer my 30+ years of experience in installing tile and my professional opinion. I would love to hear from other expert tile installers on this issue. And again will approach these other opinions with a open mind.  Regards  chris

Ditra membrane adhered to floor with unmodified thin set

notice this thinset mortar says on bag ad acrylic mortar admix for strength

See this product stated for concrete floor installations Also notice it says meets requirements WHEN mixed with additive

See how this thin membrane is adhered to floor with only UNMODIFIED low grade thin set to wood floor

I mentioned earlier when I pulled this post aside in order to review and discuss the feedback we received with Chris. that Chris would read all the many contrary comments and consider his post and/or provide clear evidence of his stand.  ButChris insisted I put the post back up as he stands by his original post. In my haste to put the post on hold, I erased the very helpful comments from all kinds of tile experts.  I'd love to hear back from them.  We appreciate your patience. Thank you. Diana. 

85 Ukraine readers this month

Ukraine  readers  just wanted to support you and your country .85 page views from Ukraine this month We really appreciate your visits to our blog Good luck and our prayers are with you and we hope the best for you  and  all of your country

Under Tile Radiant Heat Installation | Electric Heat Pad Installed

There are many systems for under tile radiant heating It is a comfort that in the winter makes all the difference your bathroom. Some use water under the floor, this system is very efficient but costly to install. 

The most common that we work with is the electric heat pad. The electrician sets up the system hardwired into he wall directly into the thermostat with a scream box wired in, A scream box is always required because it proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that the heat pad is still in working condition after the tile has been installed. The way it works is it is wired directly into the live system and very simply is constantly checking the circuit continuity and if the circuit is broken will emit a loud unmistakable ear piercing scream if the circuit is broken. This is a must for the installer as insurance and proof that after the tile is installed the heat pad is still in working order.

A warm tile floor is wonderful on the feet when stepping out of the shower. Also radiant heat keeps the bathroom toasty warm all the time. As the tile warms up the heat rises and keeps the room at a constant toasty temperature. Much like the fire bricks of a fireplace, the tile warms up, holds the heat and distributes it evenly  throughout  the room. It is very efficient and a big plus for any bathroom.