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Showing posts with label broke joint. Show all posts
Showing posts with label broke joint. Show all posts

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Tile Installtion FAQ: Sanded Grout or Un-Sanded Grout?

Tile Installation and Tile Repair 

Most Frequently Asked Questions from Consumers:

  From Newly Forming FAQ on Tile Installation, Tile Repairs & All Things Tile Related:

Many people have asked me over the years which grout to use in their house particular to their tile installation. There is a simple answer to every question. Always use sanded grout whenever possible.
The industry standard states that un-sanded grout be used on grout joints 1/8  or less and sanded grout is used on grout joints 1/8 and larger up to 1/2 inch. So 1/8 inch grout joints can have sanded or unsanded (non sanded) grout applications. The reason sanded grout is always the best option in my opinion and experience is because it is undoubtedly much stronger and longer lasting. The reason being the sand in the grout acts like the gravel in concrete and binds the concrete together and keeps it from cracking. Unsanded grout doesn't have this binding strength and cracks and chips out over the long term and from my experiences doesn't last as long as a sanded grout. Some applications require a un-sanded grout when joints are too small for sanded grout to penetrate or in instances when sanded grout may scratch the installation material. Such materials as Marble, Travertine and soapstone are easily scratched and a sanded grout is not applicable [according to the manufacturer].  But anytime there is a choice between SANDED AND UNSANDED  grout, and sanded can be used, it would be advantageous to use the SANDED GROUT  whenever possible.

Below are pictures of examples installed this past week in Manchester MA of both sanded and sanded grout applications. As well as glass and 'metal mosaic tile that manufacturers recommend be installed with unsanded grout  But  I will explain how and why I used sanded grout for the installation.

Glass tile can be easily scratched when sanded grout is applied with a grout float especially when applied by an unskilled tilesetter. Manufactures recommend using the unsanded grout to install their product. But if sanded grout is applied with the hands and not a hard rubber float sanded grout can be used without scratching the tile giving the installation the long lasting strength that I would prefer in my home .
The advantage of  a UNSANDED  grout is that the finished product has a smooth finished  grout line, clean and smooth to the touch. Sanded grout ends up being rough like sandpaper to the touch.

I always try to bring my customers the highest quality installations at the most economical price , and for DIY and consumer readers with tile questions/concerns here on this blog I have the same philosophy; to bring my readers the information of options for both quality, longevity and economics

This is my opinion only based on years of tile experience. But other tile installation professionals may have different responses based on their training and experiences, so I welcome any to share their thoughts here with my readers. I want this to be a place where people can get help. 

Feel free any time to ask questions and inquires and I will do my best to help anyone in any country regarding any tile situation where my opinion can help you in making the best decision for your job. I realize my opinions are based on my experience, training and perceptions, so other professional tile installers may have different, not necessarily right or wrong just different than mine, so consider it one man's  make to make the best decision about your job  thanks.

Broke joint floor tile  with a 3/16 grout joint with sanded grout

1 inch hexagon marble which can be easily scratched by sanded grout using a rubber float
I hand grouted with sanded grout for strength

2 inch hexagon marble tile with a dot
easily scratched by sanded grout using a rubber float
hand grouted with sanded grout for strength
broke joint floor tile using a 3/16 grout joint and sanded grout

glass and metal mosaic tile recommended to use unsanded grout to prevent scratching
If hand  grouted carefully sanded grout can be used for strength  

glass and metal mosaic tile recommended to use unsanded grout to prevent scratching
If hand  grouted carefully sanded grout can be used for strength  

Saturday, March 9, 2013

The simplest tile pattern shower for the tile do-it yourselfer part 1

pic #1 raw concrete floor ready to tile
Broke joint tile or brick pattern offset tile is by far the easiest tile to install.And If I was to advise the homeowner of a tile that they could install themselves with limited experience this would be it.The pictures below show the work and the process of 3 hours of working time on my job this week.I will walk you through it and hopefully you will get the idea of how to do it and why its by far the easiest tile to lay yourself.picture  

2 below shows the standard 6 by 6 ceramic tile.Picture 3 and 4 show the tile cutting machine and the 6 by 6 tiles cut in halves ready to start laying tile on the wall
picture 5 and 6 show the first level line of tile on the back wall and the beginning of the second and third course. Notice how on the straight part of the wall where the tile starts on the first row is a half tile then second row is a whole tile then third row a half again.  This starting off with half whole half whole gives you the offset brick like pattern. Picture 7 and 8 show thinset mortar on the wall ready to continue tile up the wall and the 1/4 notched trowel used to put it on the wall. Picture 9  10 and 11 show the wall tile as it progresses up to 6 courses high. picture  12 is of a bear right side wall ready for tile ,The first thing is to install 2 by 6 bullnose on a level vertical line just past the joint of the durock and the finish wall.Picture 13 and 14 are side and full views of the bullnose .Picture 15 shows the first piece of bullnose installed on the wall and you can see the level horizontal line for the first course of tile .Picture 16 shows the horizontal first course line in a better perspective.Picture 17 and 18 are both side ways and show the bullnose as it works up the wall again these photos are sideways, please excuse my disabilities with tech stuff, I couldn't for the life of me figure how to rotate the photos.Picture 19 shows the finished bullnose to the ceiling on the right side wall.Picture 20 shows the first line of tile on the right side wall laid on the level line ready to stack rows of tile on top.Picture 21 shows where the right wall tile meets the back wall and matches the corner meeting lines.Pictures 22 and 23 show the  6 inch wide by 5 ft long marble threshold that will finish off the top of the curb.picture 24 shows 6 full courses of tile finished on back and right side wall and picture 25 shows the first corner soap dish installed on the top corner of the six courses.Picture 26 lets you see how to get and draw your level lines around and over your corner soap dish  to make your precise cuts.Pictures 27 and 28 show the back wall with 3 more courses above the soap dish.Picture 29 shows the side right wall with 3 more courses filling all around the corner soap dish.Picture 30 and 31 show the second corner soap dish on top of the ninth course and the wall soap dish installed Finally The last photo ITS LUNCH TIME ha ha . All these photos and work was done in 3 hours from 9 am to noon.This tile installation is one of the more simpler installations because the tile lines are offset like bricks and no straight lines are required.If you start simply with a first row of level tile then progress off of one wall with a half tile then a whole tile one course at a time you cant go wrong.The finish product looks very nice and as you will see in part 2 add a little color with a design strip and you have a wonderful design shower!!So be on the look out for the second part of this blog when we do the rest of the walls,the floors,and finish the curb  and complete this project with more photos 

 pic #2  6 by 6 tiles for brick pattern

 pic #3  6 by 6's cut in cut in half ready

 pic #4  6 by 6's cut in half

pic #5  first line of level tile and beginning second and third row with offset joint

pic #6  close up of 1st row and second and 3rd starting course

pic #7  thin set applied on wall to continue 2nd and 3rd course

 pic #8   1/4 inch notches trowel to apply thinset to walls

pic #9  3 rows of tile completed on back wall

pic #10 closer view back wall 3 rows

pic #11  6 rows completed on back wall

pic # 12  right wall bear and ready for tile

pic#13 close up of 2 inch by 6 inch bullnose tile

pic #14 full view of 2 inch by 6 inch tile

pic#15 first piece of bullnose on wall with level line

pic #16 level horizontal line on wall ready to start first level line of tile

pic #17 is sideways but shows level line for bullnose

pis #18 is as well sideways showing thinseted bullnose

pic #19 shows completed bullnose tile laid to ceiling on right  side wall

pic #20 shows first level line of tile to bullnose on right side wall

pic#21 shows exact level line meeting corner from right side wall to back wall

pic#22 shows marble threshold that will finish top of curb

pic #23 close up of 6 inch wide 5 ft long marble threshold

pic#24     6 rows of tile finished on back and right side wall

pic #25  first corner soap dish installed

pic # 26 level lines  drawn from next course tile to gauge cuts around corner soap dish

pic#27 3 rows of tile above corner dish on back wall

pic#28 shows close up around corner dish with visual gauge line on right wall

pic #29  corner soap dish with completed 9 courses of tile

pic#30 second corner soap dish

pic # 31 finally the wall soap dish is installed

Its LUNCH time and the end of part !

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