Ask Tile Excellence!: mastic

Ask Tile Excellence!

Tile Installation and Tile Repair DIY and How-To Consumer Help Blog |Tile Excellence. Step-by-step instructional posts from Tile Setter and owner, Chris Lawson, a tile layer for over 30 years, the last 15 years spent serving the towns and cities North of Boston, MA, including the North Shore area, Essex County. Gloucester, Rockport, Hamilton, Manchester, Beverly, Danvers, Salem, Newport, Cambridge, Boston, Ipswich, Georgetown and more.

Showing posts with label mastic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mastic. Show all posts

Friday, April 18, 2014

Hey There, Regards, Chris
Morning Chris,

Well I'm at the point of applying tile in the shower and on the tub deck and backsplash when the tile arrives. However, I have a question about adhesives and waterproofing and crack isolation membrane, specifically Mapelastic AquaDefense, which is a paint on membrane which was recommended when I was picking up quick pitch systems and floor mud and I said sure; @ $50 a gallon. The tile guy I have here said it would produce a better bond but apparently he didn't read all the specs because you can't apply it and then use premixed adhesives which I assume rules out Type 1 Mastic and limits him to thin set which he didn't intend to use on the walls and ceilings.

Now I haven't actually applied the liquid membrane yet and was even wondering if it was a good idea because as an after thought, I'm thinking that it would hold any water seeping through the tile at the top of the base whereas I thought the idea was for any water seeping through to arrive at the shower tub membrane and be weeped over to and removed by the weep holes of the clamping drain.

So given this, I suppose my questions are:

1) Is Type 1 Mastic a better adhesive that latex or acrylic thinset and which of those two are better?

2) Is this membrane product even worth using at all?

3) Might it be worth using on the floor base and cinder block and deck mud bench seat and leave the hardy board untouched.

4) Or use it on the entire shower surface and tub deck and use thinset, latex or acrylic, on all surfaces including the ceiling which was the recommendation of the Mapei Product Support guy. He also said there is a quick drying thinset that I could/should use on the ceiling.

I was thinking that if I do the seat and floor, I'd leave six inches around the drain untreated as a means of allowing any water that did get through to weep to and pass through to the shower pan membrane.

I did search the internet but couldn't find any useful info on this situation and any thoughts you might have would be helpful.



Chris Lawson

9:36 PM (22 hours ago)
to Kirby
I always prefer thinset over any adhesive as concrete is never affected by water and lasts a lifetime.
using the waterproofer on the entire shower walls and floors is always a good idea and insures no water EVER
ends up behind walls and effects wood.  leaving  space around the drain doesn't seem required as if water ever gets by
the waterproofer it will be drained by the drain weep holes any way. Many showers and wet installations are done entirely
with out the waterproofer and last problem free for the entire life of the installation. But the use of waterproofer just insures added protection and safeguards against  any water damage that could ever occur  regards   chris 978-471-9127